- Step 3: Add Your Ammonia
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On the tests, if you read them outside in natural daylight, you’ll get a much more accurate result. Indoor lighting can often return an incorrect reading, especially under yellow/orange lights. If you take the tests outside in the middle of the day it will be much easier to identify the color. All the plants are thriving and 3 out of 9 bulbs have almost out-grown the established plants that I added. During this reboot I found out on day 7 that my ammonia was off the chart.
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The aquarium gods are mad at me for getting a second tank before finishing my first cycle I guess. I have checked my nitrates a few times over the past 1-2 weeks, and they are staying at 5 ppm. I’m essentially in a holding pattern, where the ammonia is getting metabolized rapidly but the nitrites are staying at 2-5 ppm and the nitrates at 5 ppm.
I did a 60% water change last night and today, it’s still at 8ppm. If you are doing a fishless cycle, as per the final step of this guide, if you add your dose of ammonia and it disapears within 24 hours, then your tank is cycled. If you add your ammonia, and it’s still measurable 24 hours later, then your tank isn’t cycled.
Step 3: Add Your Ammonia
The only products I’ve added are StartSmart Complete and API Quick Start, both of which are nitrifying bacteria. I am just a little frustrated because the last 10 days the tank is still taking the tank 48 hours to cycle the ammonia and nitrites out. I just want to know that I am on the right track and just need a little more patience. Ideally you want to get it down below 40 so do a water change, wait 30 mins, retest, and do another if needed. Some people experience the cycle in just a few days, others take months. The instructions above do not use prime to cycle, since there is nothing in the tank that will be harmed by elevated levels of ammonia and nitrite.
The nitrates are particuarly high, a 50% water change will drop this roughly in half. You’ll probably want to do a few of these you’ll need to sort this out when you add fish anyway. In a fishless cycle, there isn’t really a need to do a water change except when balancing the parameters is needed . You have correctly identified that as a possible way of raising your pH levels. Seachem prime treats ammonia up to 5 ppm, if your ammonia levels were 8, then they were still harming your betta. A water 50% water change or three is needed here, each 50% water change will roughly drop the ammonia concentration by 50% getting it back to manageable levels.
While you don’t necessarily need to perform a water change yet, I personally recommend it. The reason for this is that you are unable to see how high your nitrite and nitrate levels are. Because of this, you can’t tell if they are rising, falling or even if the cycle has stalled. By getting these levels back down to readable levels, you can follow along and identify when problems arise.
I can’t understand how anyone finds this easy to follow. I can’t even follow what chemical I’m using to adjust all these different things I’m supposed to be checking. I think I’ll put these fish out of their misery and flush them.
I have my fingers crossed that’s the last of the hiccups you face and it’s smooth sailing from here. You have done awesome work to make it this far Lezlee and I’m confident you are going to be an amazing fish keeper. Many other people have given up long before reaching this point. Let me know if anything else arises and I’ll do my best to help. Sorry for the delayed response, I didn’t have internet for the past few days. I’ll be here if you have any questions or concerns regarding the cycle.
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I think somewhere down the road I’ll upgrade to a 20 gallon anyway. Now that I know the cycling process pretty well I think it Finding the Best Delta-10 Gummies would be nicer so I can add a few more different kinds of fish. Now I’m really worried that the low PH will harm my babies.
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Either it is being converted into nitrites (which isn’t the case here) or it is being removed by chemical filter media such as zeolite. Well spotted, as I discussed with another commenter, Where do you source your CBD? this is actually a chart of my last fish-in cycle I performed. I understand it adds confusion, but I thought it would still give a good idea of how the cycle progresses.
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And, Thats Really All There Is To The Nitrogen Cycle!
Unless you use a filter media that removes it, it should begin to increase. I really want to have Izzy and eventually her babies in the big tank so I can start enjoying them. Then I’ll only have to test one tank and not every day.
Just be mindful that this will dilute your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate by the same ratio, so if you need to add more ammonia after, be sure to do it. If the testing is normal, and you have excluded anything that removes ammonia from your tank, I’d keep redosing for the week. If ammonia keeps going down at the same rate then you should eventually hit your 0 nitrite + readable nitrate levels. I would add another 4ppm as nitrate should be the only thing to go up in a cycled tank.
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Not because it doesn’t work but because beginners often use it to “hide problems” that are a result of poor maintenance . There is a tendency to rely on purigen instead of good tank practices, which generally eliminates the need for it altogether. Not only that but the stuff smells disgusting and, although it can be reused to a point, it’s still an ongoing cost.
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In a regular maintained tank, diatoms are normal during cycling and sometimes persist after the cycling stage before finally disappearing. If they continue, then they are likely feeding off something in your tank. First thing to do is to check your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH/GH, etc.) and make sure everything is normal here. I’d give it one more week and see what your readings are then. If your nitrate levels have been going up this whole time than I wouldn’t say anything is off just yet. I just want to confirm you are testing in natural daylight?
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Seachem prime is fine to use during aquarium cycling. While it does “neutralize” ammonia and nitrites, they can still be eaten by beneficial bacteria. We made sure to select brands with high quality hemp products when it comes to creating the finest delta-8 flowers and other products.
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My goal is to have snails, shrimp, and a betta (hoping it won’t eat the shrimp). So I have a piece of driftwood in there along with some live plants. Unfortunately, without a test kit it’s going to be very difficult to determine where you are in the cycle. While you could wait it out for 2 months and “assume” it’s cycled, it’s going to be tricky to see how it’s progressing otherwise. A test kit is essential even after the cycle is complete as it will allow “diagnose” your water.
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I am using the API Freshwater test kit and have tested our well water, which shows 0.25 ppm Ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 5 ppm Nitrates. As for the lights, it’s less of an issue if your fish is being brought home in a clear bag, from your local fish store. If you order your betta online, it will arrive in a dark box – the bright lights here can certainly shock your fish. Unfortunately, cycling is just a process where you have to be patient. I know it’s not the answer you want, but it beats having your fish die in just a few days. As for “bottled bacteria supplements” There are too many variables here.
Yes, it can be added with fish and Prime won’t harm the beneficial bacteria. You can substitute the recommended ammonia for fish food, although I recommend ammonia because it’s measurable. The instructions make it clear that you want to continue giving the first beneficial bacteria food through the cycle. If your nitrates exceed the color card, use a water change to bring it back to measurable levels – so you can see what is happening.
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Unfortunately, it will take a few days of waiting before you will know for sure. If so, I would monitor your nitrates as well, to see if these are going up. Not everyone experiences the cycle in the same way. Sometimes it skips from nitrites straight to nitrates.
Do I have to keep adding ammonia to increase level every day, or do I just leave it to increase on its own? Sometimes indoor lighting can make the results look off, making the reading inaccurate. Unless something is removing the ammonia in your tank, it shouldn’t just disapear. In VERY rare cases, you may have a test kit issue, but I have only ever seen this be a problem once from a generic test kit brand.
Next, are you measuring your ammonia levels straight after adding them? Wait a little while and see if that makes a difference. This is probably the biggest concern I have, that you may have overdosed on ammonia. I typically recommend getting the nitrates down below ten initially. I have only added water conditioner which makes tap water safe. Although the fluval filter has excellent aeration I added an extra aerating bar today.
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Depending on many other factors, a 10 minute float can shock your fish, same with adding your fish directly to your tank. These are not a good way to start your fish keeping journey, even if everything looks fine, it might stress your fish out to the point that it dies a few days later. Also, as an aside, Id recommend a test kit over strips. Strips don’t last as long and are more expensive in the long run.
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